Saturday, January 25, 2014
Turning Bad Wood Good and Then Into Cabinetry
Now back to the garage (with a detour through the bathroom).
Our guest bathroom cabinet drawers and doors stink:
The hinges are loose, the doors are warped and dont shut flat, the drawers are crooked, and the knobs are all messed up. Ordinarily Id just slice up some plywood, paint it, and call it a day but my wife said shed let build some rail-and-stile door for our house if I practiced frame-and-panel construction on smaller stuff--so there you go.
I wanted nice stable wood for the project, but didnt want to spend much money on it. I think wood is like steak: you can spend a lot on it and not have to work very hard for good results or you can spend less, put some effort into it, and still get good results. I bought the metaphorical cube steak:
The above photo is from Chris Schwarzs blog. Chris has got to be the number one SYP advocate around, but even he concedes that you have to baby it.
I noticed something as I was walking around Home Depot the other day: a lot of the larger boards for sale are sectioned right through the pith (see three pictures up^^^). Now, I dont want the pith--nobody wants the pith--but on either side of the pith are prime pieces of wood, essentially quartersawn. I decided to just be selective and buy these underpriced boards and cut out the good stuff.
The boards were too big for me to safely handle by myself on the table saw so I busted out the old Skil 77: what a beast. Moses was, however, unimpressed: he being a bigger beast with a louder whine. You can see how wet the wood still is by how clumpy the sawdust is in the above photo. I suppose this is a good thing, as I dont really want all that stuff flying around everywhere.
Then I just ripped the nominal 2" boards in half and had some good-sized wood for the cabinetry:
You can tell how a board is going to warp by just thinking the rings want to be straight. So now you can understand how these radial cut minimize any cupping.
Half way finished:
Construction will be pretty straightforward: a four piece frame mortise-and-tenoned together with an interior groove capturing a raised panel. No funky stick-and-cope molding nonsense...just keep it simple.
This gave me the opportunity to try out a new toy:
This is a Record #043 plough plane I just got off eBay. Its pretty versatile and a real pleasure to use. Its also probably about 70 years old and still looks great. You gotta love nickel plating: if I somehow come into possession of another one maybe Ill make it into a hood ornament. It can make a 1/4" groove half an inch deep up to 4" from the edge of a workpiece. Here its making a narrower groove thats shallower and closer to the edge...but hey, its my first time with the thing. This is the groove that will contain the panel.
Heres how the mortise-and-tenon works:
I believe this is what is known as a haunched tenon. You can see how the tenon has a little nub that fills the groove to the right of the mortise. This is a good little trick that makes a stronger and cleaner joint.
Come together:
Right now:
Over me:
In the last picture Im actually only gluing up half of it. One of the stiles (long pieces) can be popped off so I can slide the panel in when its ready.
Speaking of the panels, its time for those. My plan is to tongue-and-groove three boards together and then just be able to saw off sections to length as needed for the panels.
Tongue-and-groove, mortise-and-tenon, stick-and-cope, rail-and-stile, frame-and-panel...sheesh.
Anyone need any fire starter?
So thats where we stand now...waiting for some glue to dry. Tomorrow Ill make the raised-and-fielded (theres another one!) panel for this prototype door. Later.
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